If you are not comfortable with working on the car then just follow the BMW bleeding directions - although I've found them inadequate for the occasional bimmer that had a stubborn air lock. I have no issues with running one of these with the cap off up to about 90C which the t-stat is already starting to open. Use common sense - if the coolant is scalding hot - don't open the ET cap - use the bleed screw. You want the t-stat to at least partially open during bleeding to ensure you have full circulation - also check that heat is coming in the cabin - cause if you are not getting any heat then you might have a jammed heater valve. Some of the parts on the car were not from. So I did a cooling system overhaul, at 170 000km. Last year, I was having some issues loosing coolant and my coolant light was coming on. I do all of my own maintenance on my 330ci. Occasionally revving the engine to about 2500 RPM also helps the waterpump push the coolant through the secondary channel that feeds the heater core and heater hose lines.Įdit: Now the thermostat will be closed if you start bleeding on a cold engine. Alright, so let me start this off by saying I’m pretty mechanically inclined. This is done easier with the front end raised, the heater valve open (heater on) and I usually have the ET Cap off for bleeding so the system can burp easily. You'll need to bleed the coolant system and top it off. If your low coolant light illuminates or you suspect your vehicle’s coolant level is low, there might be a leak. When the engine is revved the coolant will evacuate the expansion tank triggering the low level light - when you shut the car off and go to check the coolant level the vaccuum fills the ET so the level looks ok. Schedule an Appointment for an Inspection at Your Local Jiffy Lube. Read the post above yours - you likely have an air bubble in your coolant.
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